Encore un peu de neige à la base. C'était bien. Ça a aidé à garder les fourmis à distance ! Le début de l'itinéraire était marqué par un rosier. La première longueur était un peu sale. Peut-être le résultat de l'hiver.Je vais écrire une description en anglais, ça peut aider certains.
We found no name at the base. However, the route is quite obvious, it starts to the left and below a prominent shield of rock at 20m. This shield has a bolt in the centre. We did not climb this blank looking slab directly, but took it's left side. There are probably enough bolts on the route to prevent the worst, however there is plenty of crack and thread protection otherwise.
The first pitch is a bit scrappy with loose rock and some dirt left over from the winter. The second pitch (50m) is excellent. Had a slight route finding issue at 2/3 height here. 3rd pich is short. 4th pitch is good too. The 6a finish is actually a deviation, there is an obvious groove (pictured Link) which is on grade (5a) and more direct too!
Watch out on the first abseil off the top, the top of this groove will catch a knot. Either lay the rope carefully to the side or descent a couple of metres and pull the knot down to avoid the crack (we did both). There is plenty of potential for ropes to catch on bushes, despite this we had no issues. The 2nd and third abseils are diagonal, but there are plenty or runnels that you can use to guide the ropes on the descent. |
